heritage

Filipino Spanish – A Shared Heritage

In 2014, few days go without comment on the increasing prominence of Hispanics or Latinos in American life. Spanish can be heard in almost every major American city and the Hispanic proportion of the population continues to increase. Census projections point to a future where Latinos will be a plurality or even a majority of Americans. These changes will have huge ramifications on the language, culture, and politics of the United States, many of which are already evident.

As Filipino-Americans also become more prominent in the United States, it’s worth wondering how they will fit into a more Latino, Spanish-speaking America. The Philippines has always occupied a unique position culturally. A mixture of Malay, Chinese, Spanish, and most recently, American cultural influences makes it not entirely at home in either Asia or Latin America. It has been referred to, sometimes negatively, as the “Mexico of Asia.” However, despite similar last names, attitudes, and many times, even physical appearance, there is a distance between Filipinos and Latinos. The biggest stumbling block is language. Though many Spanish loanwords exist in Tagalog and other Philippine languages, very few Filipinos can speak Spanish fluently. Unsurprisingly, Filipinos are literally left out of the conversation as Spanish becomes more important.

This was not always the case. For three centuries, Spanish was the language of law, education, and religion in the Philippines. After the Philippine Revolution and occupation by the United States, Spanish acquired a very negative connotation as the language of a former colonizing power that was backward and primitive. The American colonial government did much to expand English education throughout the archipelago and often compared its mission to the previous Spanish colonizers. Through much of the 20th century, the dominant narrative of Philippine history was that the United States had freed the Philippines from poverty and superstition imposed by Spain. For many Filipinos coming of age in the newly independent republic after 1946, English was modern and versatile, Spanish was archaic and useless.

In hindsight, the American-imposed narrative of a backward, Spanish speaking Philippines being replaced by a modern, English speaking one is not entirely correct. If it was the language of its colonizers, Spanish was also the language of the Philippines’ greatest patriots. The works of Jose Rizal, El Filibusterismo and Noli Me Tangere, were written in Spanish. Rizal’s most famous poem, and arguably the most famous poem written by a Filipino, Mi Ultimo Adios, is best read in the original language.

¡Adiós, Patria adorada, región del sol querida, Perla del mar de oriente, nuestro perdido Edén! A darte voy alegre la triste mustia vida, Y fuera más brillante, más fresca, más florida, También por ti la diera, la diera por tu bien.

 

Indeed, Spanish did not disappear after 1898. It remained the language of education and political activism well into the 1930’s. A speech given by President Manuel L. Quezon can be found on YouTube with two sections, one in English, and the other in Spanish. Unfortunately, war and cultural change made the language all but extinct in the Philippines. The heart of old, Spanish speaking Manila was totally destroyed during the battle for the city in 1945. The liberation of Manila involved enormous loss of life – estimates run into hundreds of thousands killed and many more displaced. Those residents of old Manila had kept their linguistic and cultural traditions alive through four decades of American rule. After the war, there would be few to replace them. At the same time, American pop culture, as communicated by an increasingly powerful mass media, began to influence every aspect of Philippine life. American movies, TV shows, music, sports, and fashion dominated the Philippines after WW II and have continued to since then, with Filipinos watching, listening, and often times discussing them in English. The official status of Spanish ended in 1973 during the government of Ferdinand Marcos. By that time few Filipinos outside of the elderly spoke the language fluently. The change merely reflected reality – Spanish had all but disappeared.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=663otOvJVGU

Filipino-Americans today might ask what if any relevance these events, some more than a century old, have on them in the United States. It’s quite ironic that as the first few generations of Filipinos grew up without any connection to Spanish, the language has gained a new importance. With the Philippines as the call center capital of the world, Spanish speakers are once again in demand, no doubt due to the huge number of Latinos in the American market. In the United States itself, Spanish is becoming indispensable. The present wave of immigrants from Mexico and Central America is the largest in American history and will no doubt permanently alter the United States as a nation.

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In retrospect, the decision to end the official status of Spanish as a Philippine language seems myopic and misguided. Of course, Philippine lawmakers in the 1970’s could not have imagined the changes that would take place just decades afterward, namely, the economic emergence of Latin America and the spectacular growth of the Hispanic population in the US. For Filipino-Americans, usually English speaking since birth, this is a unique opportunity to reconnect with identity and gain a very useful skill. A common theme of the Fil-Am experience is the search for identity, of what it truly means to be Filipino despite often not having been born there or not speaking the language. It may seem unusual, but learning Spanish is one step to defining that identity. It is already the most commonly studied foreign language in the US. Learning it and becoming fluent would be of immeasurable help in better understanding and communicating with the already 50 million American Latinos who could be their classmates, neighbors, or coworkers. Most importantly, it would be a bridge to the foundations of Philippine nationhood, the words and works of Rizal, Aguinaldo, Bonifacio, and Quezon. Learning Spanish would improve Filipino-Americans’ understanding of another people’s culture and heritage – as well as their own.

About the author


10352321_10153026739129050_5599371636193964618_nCristobal Zarco was born in the Philippines and grew up in New York, specifically Long Island. He graduated with a degree in political science from Adelphi University. He enjoys tracking down books about Philippine history and exploring lesser known parts of New York City.


 

 

Manila Revisited: Enduring Gems

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I've always wondered why Manila is not as culturally cohesive and in-tact as Bangkok, or as colorful as Kuala Lumpur. As I look back, I grew up without any clear landmark that I can easily associate with the city, in the way that the Eiffel Tower is synonymous to Paris and the Forbidden City, to Beijing. In some ways this can be seen as a problem of identity.

Admittedly, my travels abroad widened my perspective and eventually made me compare Manila to other key cities that I have visited – each offering a different worldview from the rest. Initial impressions on Manila’s may NOT always be pleasant. But, really, what can be expected from the second most devastated city in the world that barely regained its glorious past after the Second World War? It is in this matter that Manila has to be understood in a particular context.

Manila will never run out of popular places to visit, whether you are Filipino simply wishing to unwind or a traveler wanting to explore the city’s local colors and great past. However, it is often hard to make something out of the few and scattered enduring reminders of Manila’s splendor. We used to enjoy the names, “Hispania of the Pacific”, “the Pearl of the Orient”, and Manila being specifically conferred with the title “the Distinguished and Ever Loyal City” by Spain. Early this year, I realized that 24 years in Manila without a full understanding on what it really has to offer is largely my shortcoming. Practically clueless and ignorant, I have been claiming to be a Filipino, but have always been devoid of what is called the Filipino heritage consciousness.rsz_cover_photo_-_manila_city_hall

For four consecutive Saturdays, I devoted the entire day to revisit Manila’s famous -- and not-so-famous -- attractions. My explorations resulted in finding more reasons to be proud in being a Filipino. I would like to share some of my realizations about the wonders of Manila, and how -- ever since I revisited Manila -- I have always been talking about it along the narratives it deserve.

Firstly, being deprived from easy access to countries in the mainland, Manila and the rest of the Philippines is often considered as the odd-one-out. But, as what I always say, what differentiates an interesting travel from a dull one is the traveler attitude. It has to be understood that, culturally and historically, Manila is unique in its own way. Manila has witnessed a lot of transformations – from being a tributary to a Hindu-Malay maritime empire, to being a trading kingdom in its own right, to being under Spanish rule for more than three centuries, to the short British and Japanese occupations, to the 50-year American-era, and up to its independence and nationhood. The city definitely offers a totally different story to that of the rest of Southeast Asia.

My “Manila Revisited” starts with San Sebastian Minor Basilica in Quiapo, and the ‘vast’ Luneta Park.

San Sebastian Minor Basilica is one of Manila’s hiding gems, and it is funny how I only went inside this cultural site this year. The only all-steel basilica also happens to be the second structure in the world  made completely of steel – just after Eiffel Tower.  Understanding that no structure would stand permanently in an area that is frequented by earthquakes, a church that would withstand not only earthquakes but also fire was commissioned by the Recollects. Highly priced by the World Monument Fund, San Sebastian is also the only church that follows the neo-Gothic tradition in the Philippines; it was modeled after the Burgos Cathedral in Spain. Moreover, it is also known to being the only pre-fabricated church in the world with its components shipped from Belgium. The outstanding universal value of San Sebastian is very evident, and a trip to Manila without seeing this engineering marvel is never really complete.

San Sebastian

Describing Luneta Park as ‘vast’ is not an opinion; it is a fact. Luneta Park is the largest open-space public park in Asia (Yes, not Tianamen Square), and is a favorite hangout place for many Filipinos and tourists alike. Aside from the historical importance of Luneta, I personally like the way that it functions as a real and traditional plaza where people come together and are at their liberty to do things. The highlight of the place is the Rizal Monument that is watched over by two state guards in uniform. It’s worth the wait to witness the changing of the guards’ rites as it is very regal and a truly exceptional sight in the city. From Luneta, I walked along Roxas Boulevard to witness the golden hour – the sunset at the Manila Bay – and proceeded to the Cultural Centre of the Philippines where regular shows and exhibitions on local arts and traditions are usually staged and are placed on a pedestal.

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My first revisit of Manila made me thirst for more. I suddenly became interested about the city’s past. I knew there was more to discover still. On the following Saturday, I decided to spend the day in the very familiar – yet still mysterious – district of Intramuros.  I initially considered joining one of the tours being offered, but I ended up taking the tour around the walled city on my own, at my own pacing – it’s actually a good choice.

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As mentioned earlier, the grandeur of Manila has always been reshaped through the wars it witnessed. Some of its greatness still stands today, while most have been forever lost. Intramuros, the fortified central district of Manila, is perhaps still the Philippines’ best testimony that this country was once considered as the “Little Europe of Asia”. Largely bombed and destroyed during the World War 2 and the Philippine-American battle, Intramuros and adjoining Fort Santiago have been subjected to a lot of restoration and preservation efforts by the government and international groups alike. In fact, Fort Santiago was once declared as one of the 100 Most Endangered Monuments by the World Monument Watch.

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While it also once held the reputation of being “the walled city of many churches” as there were originally seven churches inside, only one remained after World War II, the San Agustin church. Under the inscription Baroque Churches of the Philippines, San Agustin church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It takes pride in itself being the oldest church in the Philippines, and in having one of the best church interiors in Asia. The impressive reconstructed Manila cathedral, the principal church of the country, is also located a few steps from San Agustin. Other points of interest within Intramuros are the Palacio del Gobernador, Palacio de Arzobizpado, Plaza de Roma, Ayuntamiento, preserved colonial houses, and several historical monuments and structures. While others say that the best way to experience Intramuros is through riding a calesa (a horse-drawn carriage), I personally prefer walking around the small walled district. At least give Intramuros a whole day to really get a picture on how it may have looked like in the past. It still got charm to boast. Not quite known to most: the Spanish name of the old walled district of Manila is actually  Ciudad Murada de Manila; Intramuros is a later Latin coinage.

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On the third week of my “Manila Revisited”, I did something a normal traveller would never do: visiting an old university, and an old cemetery.

Manila is home to the oldest university in Asia at 400 years old, the University of Sto. Tomas. Aside from its age, the university happens to have three National Cultural Treasures within its gates: the old administration building, the university grounds, and the Arch of Centuries. Though it may be hard for tourists – local and foreigners alike – to go as far as getting close to the old administration building and the grounds, The Arch of Centuries is probably the first monument one will ever see upon entering the main gate of the University of Sto. Tomas. The present arch, however, is just a replica of the old arch-gate of the earlier university campus that used to be inside Intramuros. As with most buildings in Intramuros back then, the war never spared the old University of Sto. Tomas. Largely of the baroque architecture tradition, with prominent Doric columns, and beautiful sculptures, this is probably the oldest “symbol of learning” in the country.ust

Paco Park, on the other hand, has a much obscure history to tell. It used to be the exclussive cemetery of the elite residents of Intramuros – it is interesting how the cemetery is also walled in a circular fashion much like the walled city itself. Notable personalities interred in Paco Park were the martyr priests Gomez-Burgos-Zamora, several governor generals of the Philippines, and, for quite a time, also served as the resting place of Jose Rizal, the Philippines’ National Hero, before his remains were transferred to Luneta Park. But, what’s more telling about this park is the fact that it became the mass burial site for the victims of the Asiatic cholera epidemic in the 1820s. During the World War II, this also became a Japanese quarters when they seized Manila. Paco Park is a declared National Park, and serves as a humble place of serenity and beauty amidst the busy districts of Manila. Probably, this is one of the most romantic places I’ve seen so far in the metro.

On the fourth and last week, I decided to go to back to Quiapo, a good starting point for travelers in exploring Manila. I visited the Basilica Minore de Quiapo, the Old Post Office Building, and La Loma Cemetery.

Post Office Building

Quiapo Church has actually been elevated to a status of a Basilica Minore. Quiapo Church – of Latin American neo-classical architecture – houses one of the most venerated images of the Christ – the image of the Black Nazarene. Though many would consider Quiapo as a present-day eye sore, I have always felt connected to this old place due to its own charm. Though it is a religious site, its periphery is flooded by “this and that” things. On one end, one can see some vendors selling all sorts of stuff – souvenirs for tourists, religious materials, herbs and medicines, potions and black magic concoctions, charms and amulets, among others. On the other end, you will see a line of fortune tellers who would gesture invitations to passers-by. Passing through Quezon Bridge, I headed to the Post Office Building. It is one of the few old buildings in Manila that reminds us how grand Manila might have been before, and has been a witness to the many transformations in the capital. My visit to the Post Office was a functional visit. I went there to send someone a postcard. Though I could have sent the postcard in a local post office, I felt that “that someone” should have a remembrance of the old Post Office Building – at least on stamps – before they reconfigure it as a hotel soon. I also went to the oldest cemetery in the country – the La Loma Catholic Cemetery. It being one of the oldest is enough justification as to why I felt this place deserves to be visited. The baroque mortuary chapel is, admittedly, the centerpiece of the place. At the moment the chapel is abandoned and in a state of massive deterioration.

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There are still a lot of places in Manila that travelers can explore. Manila Zoo, for example, is the first and biggest zoo in Asia. Manila also houses some of the biggest malls in the world. The China Town in the old districts of Manila is the oldest recorded China town in the world as well. Manila is unique. One has to figure it out by himself as I’m sure that he will find another interpretation of things.

 Post by Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero


74762_10151172406852613_687399416_nBernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero is a self-confessed cultural junky. Based in the Philippines, he has delivered several talks on tourism, destination promotion and management, and the importance of cultural conservation. As a heritage advocate and consultant, he has assisted and appeared in some features by the Euronews, NGC-Asia, Solar TV, ABS-CBN Regional News Network, as well as being cited by the Philippine Star and the PIA. He enjoys ticking off as many UNESCO World Heritage Sites as possible. So far, Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak, the Preah Vihear Temple in Cambodia, and the Philippines' Apo Reef and Ifugao Rice Terraces are the best places he has seen in SE Asia.


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